We had a fantastic week hiking in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, exploring breathtaking lakes, rivers, mountain trails, waterfalls, alpine meadows, and deep gorges. As a child, I was captivated by old movies featuring a cherry-red Alfa Romeo convertible driven by Cary Grant, with Audrey Hepburn, as they wound through the Alps with verdant valleys beneath. These majestic mountains have always been a personal favourite.
Like all adventures, our hiking came with some challenges, but the memories we’ve made will last forever. We encountered some unseasonal rain, yet it also brought unexpected joys, such as the misty trails sparkling in the lush greenery. The rain also meant our Day 2 hike was transformed into a cascade of splendour, more on this later.
We arrived at our first location, Kranjska Gora, and I immediately fell in love with it, despite the cloudy skies above. In the early autumn colours, I felt I’d arrived in a serene alpine haven, where vibrant golden and crimson foliage was blanketing the Julian Alps, creating a tranquil ambience that was perfect for our hiking days ahead, even in the rain.
Our taxi from Ljubljana Airport took us to our first hotel, situated near the foothills of Mount Vitranc and just a short stroll from the lively village centre. In winter, Kranjska Gora turns into a world-class ski resort, while in the warmer months, it becomes an outdoor haven where cyclists, walkers, and hikers mingle. The family-run hotel was warm and inviting, and our room featured a balcony where you could step out, enjoy the fresh mountain air, and take in the scent of the pine forests above.
Our flight from London Gatwick was very early. When I say early, I needed two shots of espresso to help me navigate the airport. The upside was that we unpacked and were ready to start our first walk by 1 p.m. local time. The hike to Lake Fusine would cross the border into Italy, which sounded rather exciting. I’d read about the beautiful, crystal-clear waters with dramatic mountain reflections, but on arrival, we could barely see the lake or the mountains. 😊
Instead of taking photos, we sought shelter in the charming alpine mountain hut, and once we felt suitably refreshed, we set off at a brisk pace, eager to escape the heavy rain and the occasional clap of thunder. We were somewhat worried about how we would dry out for the next day’s hike, but we need not have been. The hotel had a drying room (apparently something skiers use), and everything was dry, ready for us to hike the next day after one of the best breakfasts we’ve ever had!
I promised a silver lining, and here it is. As we set off, it became apparent that the heavy rain had transformed the waterfalls into stunning cascades, with silvery streams plunging into shimmering pools below, all set against towering moss-covered cliffs. The torrents roared like thunder, sending up a misty veil that enveloped us as we continued upwards on our second day’s hike. This walk was fantastic, and the worst of the rain held off until we were on our way back. Once again, the “drying room” was our saviour.
Kranjska Gora offers a selection of excellent restaurants. Jamie and I also enjoy a pre-dinner beer, and we found the best bar for prime people-watching. Bar Pristavec is the quintessential locals’ pub; a cosy, no-frills spot where weathered alpine villagers exchange stories over laid-back tunes. By the time we moved on, we felt like locals.
The walk to our next location, Lake Bohinj, was one of our favourites. Apine meadows stretched out before us with cowbells ringing gently in the fields around us. I always feel a bit sorry for the cows that get allocated bells; it must be irritating having a bell ring every time you move. Nice for us walkers though!
Upon our arrival, the lake’s tranquil beauty was evident even amidst the clouds. The emerald green waters were notably clear, allowing us to see the lakebed in the shallower regions. We were also fortunate enough to witness the stunning limestone peaks as the clouds parted for a few hours on our second day. Additionally, we were treated to the captivating sound of Slovenian singing during dinner. A group staying at the hotel spontaneously chose to entertain us with harmonious, melodic Slovenian folk music, which is a vital part of the country’s rich musical heritage. This also encouraged us to linger and enjoy more of the red wine on offer.
Our final stop was Lake Bled, and the hike to get there was equally enjoyable. Our hotel was nestled at the far end of the lake, away from the hustle and bustle. It occupied a prime position that truly captured the alpine serenity and romance, just like the old movies I remembered from my childhood. The view from our balcony was breathtaking, and remarkably, the sun was shining. We were close enough to stroll along the lakeside, yet elevated enough for picture-perfect views.
The walk from Bled to Vintgar Gorge was delightful, and that evening we dined at our hotel, where our meal was included. The restaurant’s ambience reflected the hotel’s century-old history. It created a historic, cosy atmosphere with panoramic lake views. We had met other walkers during our hiking holiday, and it was lovely to catch up over a drink in such stunning surroundings.
On our final night in Bled, we discovered a restaurant that served burgers, fries, chocolate cake, and beer. It was the perfect meal to cap off a wonderful week. And yes, you guessed it: the sun shone brightly as we made our way to the airport for our return flight home.
Living-your-best-life 