Hi everyone, I’m back with another enjoyable walk as part of my series “Adventures on the Cornish Coast Path”. This time, I’ll lead you from Perranporth to Portreath, stopping at my favourite places along the way. I’ve walked this route many times, particularly the stretch from St Agnes to Chapel Porth, since St Agnes is my home. If you’re hiking the whole South West Coastal Path, I recommend following the suggested coastal path sections, but if you’re not on a fixed schedule, spending a night in St Agnes is definitely worth it. Why? Read my previous post.
This 12.2-mile route offers breathtaking cliff-top views, charming remnants of the historic tin mining industry, intriguing geology, and opportunities to spot wildlife, including seabirds—razorbills, guillemots, and kittiwakes—as well as rare bats in old mine shafts. The hike is moderately challenging, with an elevation gain of about 2,093 feet, and usually takes 6 to 6.5 hours at a steady pace. It’s a good idea to leave some extra time for rests and memorable photos. In my opinion, the last section is the most difficult, so you need to take on fuel at my recommended stops 😊.
Let’s start at Perranporth Beach, a stunning, wide, sandy stretch ideal for surfing. You’ll notice the Watering Hole pub, a lovely spot to enjoy the sunset in the evening. During the summer, Jamie and I have taken the bus from St Agnes and relaxed on the fantastic decking, listening to lively Cornish music. It’s also where Tunes in the Dunes takes place, one of Cornwall’s many vibrant music festivals.
I love dividing walks into sections, and this route naturally breaks into five main parts based on key landmarks. Let’s go.
Follow the acorn signs up a steep staircase and grassy paths that veer away from Perranporth’s dunes, passing by the airfield. The terrain gradually rises along rugged cliffs, offering our first glimpses of the Atlantic and remnants of the historic 19th-century Wheal Leisure mine. The industrial history here is quite striking, with old chimneys dotting the landscape. The path remains fairly flat along the clifftop until we reach Cligga Head, a fascinating promontory with dramatic drops and unique pillow lava formations from ancient volcanic activity. While geology enthusiasts might find this intriguing, for me, it’s not particularly photogenic, so I prefer to move on.
From Cligga Head, we make our way to Trevaunane Cove, St Agnes’s finest beach. The trail winds through fascinating mining relics, including the mysterious “bat castles” (sealed shafts that serve as roosting spots for rare horseshoe bats). The path hugs a narrow, sometimes exhilarating cliff edge with breathtaking drops, but don’t worry—it’s carefully maintained. If you prefer to stay a bit safer, there’s a higher path that’s not so close to the edge. As you arrive at Trevaunance Cove, you’ll find a lovely café (the one in my photo), perfect for a relaxing late breakfast, early lunch, or a quick energy-boosting coffee. It’s a wonderful spot to unwind and soak in the stunning coastal views.
Feeling refreshed and energised, we’re now on our way to Chapel Porth, where we’ll face a lovely but fairly steep climb from the cove up to the’ rock ‘ at the top. I’ve captured more photos here on my phone than anywhere else! You can see all the way across to the golden sands of Perranporth- even on a cloudy day, it appears sunny because of the bright sand. The path gently winds along the cliffs towards St Agnes Head and offers spectacular views of the coast, with sea, green fields, and purple and yellow heathland in spring and summer. For fans of Demelza and Ross, as you continue your walk, you’ll recognise parts of Poldark filmed here, including the famous Wheal Coates engine house.
The walk down into Chapel Porth offers breathtaking views. At low tide, you’ll see a vast stretch of sand with rock pools and caves, popular with surfers and families. However, at high tide, the beach can almost vanish completely, with waves crashing against the shore near the slipway. I absolutely love the National Trust café — perfect for a “croque monsieur” or their renowned hedgehog ice cream.
Next, enjoy a lovely short hike to Porthtowan. After ascending from Chapel Porth, the trail stays high along the cliffs, providing stunning ocean views and chances to see seals basking offshore, and you’ll continue to notice remnants of the mining history. The path gently rolls with a few quick dips into small, steep gullies called coombs. When the surf’s up, the beach at Porthtowan becomes lively and inviting, with golden sands surrounded by towering cliffs. If you picked up some food and drinks at Trevaunance and Chapel Porth earlier—great choices—you’ll be well set. But don’t forget to check out the Blue Bar too; its outdoor seating setup makes it the perfect spot to relax at any time of day, whether morning, noon, or early evening.
If I do the whole hike, I’ll be feeling it by now, especially after spending more time than I should, people-watching outside the Blue Bar. This last part isn’t easy either; it usually takes me about 1.5 to 2 hours on a good day! I’m sure most people do it quicker. I’ve even tackled it in the pouring rain, ending up muddy and on my bum, but I guess that’s all part of the adventure!
Once again, after the ascent, you head west along the clifftops, crossing charming valleys. The terrain gradually becomes more rugged, with uneven steps and open areas where the wind can pick up, so hold onto your hat if it’s a breezy day. Personally, I find some parts of this walk a bit dull, especially when the path runs close to the old Ministry of Defence site. It’s certainly a contrast to the more dramatic, picturesque coves and wide beaches you’ll find elsewhere along the stunning Cornish coast.
When you reach Droskyn Point, you can see Portreath’s harbour, a 19th-century centre for exporting ore that is now a yacht basin with crashing waves. The path descends through a series of steps and lanes into Portreath. If you’re staying here, Portreath has a great stretch of sand and some good pubs.
You might also celebrate with one of my favourite pastimes. Imagine this! A lovely evening as the sun sets over the sea, casting orange and pink hues across the sky, while you hold a steaming parcel of fish and chips wrapped in crisp paper, warming your hands. The fish flakes easily under a golden, crispy coating, with a delicate taste that blends with the salt and vinegar’s tang. The chips, golden and soft inside, have just the right amount of crunch, offering comforting starchy goodness. The watchful seagulls overhead, their cries blending with the sound of the surf, as you enjoy this simple, soul-warming meal. Your legs may ache from the day’s walking, but each bite feels like a reward, grounding you in this fleeting moment where the wild Cornish coast and hearty food come together.
Living-your-best-life 