Before we moved to Cornwall, we met a Cornishman on the coast path. Having shared our plans about moving to Cornwall from our home in Surrey, he said, “Only move after you’ve spent a winter here”. This winter I remembered his words!
We do get “mizzle” here, and I love it when the Cornish say to me, “It’s just a bit of mizzle, not proper rain”, as I trudge through the mud in full waterproof gear. This winter, the “mizzle” has been falling horizontally for days on end. While I’m not a fair-weather walker and don’t mind getting wet, I’ve mostly stuck to local muddy walks. So, at the first sign of sunshine, we decided to head out to one of our favourite trails. Why don’t you join me? I’d love to share a little Cornish magic with you today!
It was a lovely March day when we walked the 10.8 miles from Marazion to Porthleven. We’d often walked from Praa Sands to Porthleven but had never completed the full route. The sun shone, the birds chirped, and there was a cool breeze in the air — perfect for a day’s hike. With our rucksacks packed with sandwiches, coffee, and a sticky bun from St Agnes Bakery, we set out.
The initial stretch to Perranuthnoe is quite short and gently undulating, especially compared to the more rugged areas further west. It begins with open views across Mount’s Bay, with St Michael’s Mount standing out prominently. Many of Cornwall’s top photographers have captured stunning images of this iconic island. The path here is relaxed, mostly following low cliffs or the edge of wide sandy beaches.
I was glad it was short because we’d planned to have breakfast at the Cabin, a well-known, beautifully located favourite spot for locals and tourists alike. It did not disappoint! I enjoyed a sausage and egg sandwich made with freshly baked wholemeal bread, along with a cup of coffee. Interestingly, the last time we visited, in 2020, I started writing my lifestyle blogs about living with Ankylosing Spondylitis. Now, six years later, I can hardly believe I still find so much to write about! 😊
We left the café behind, feeling fully refreshed. However, I began to feel a bit guilty about having a sandwich and a sticky bun in my backpack. The tide was high, so that we couldn’t see the beautiful, small sandy cove. Instead, we quickly climbed onto the cliffs, where we could again enjoy wide views across Mount’s Bay.
The path from this point gently rises and falls, rather than continuously climbing. It winds along grassy cliff tops and dips into several small coves. One interesting feature to look for at Cudden Point is the style adorned with coins embedded into the wood. Some of these coins have likely been there for a long time, as they are rusty.
As you make your way towards Prussia Cove, you will see several buildings, primarily ruins from the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Among these are fish cellars. Some of the structures feature thatched roofs, while others have been converted into private cottages. There are three coves together at Prussia: Piskies, Bessy’s and King’s Cove.
It’s a lovely spot for a swim on warm days and has an interesting past. The Carter family, particularly John Carter, who called himself the “King of Prussia,” operated here from the mid-1700s. They smuggled contraband (brandy, gin, rum, tea, etc.) from France and Guernsey into the hidden, sheltered coves, using caves for storage and building harbours, roads, and a gun battery on the headland for defence. Bessy’s Cove was named after Bessey Bussow, who ran an unlicensed alehouse there; a secret passage once connected it to the beach below, and you can still see cart-wheel grooves cut into the stone from hauling goods up the slipway. I remember reading Smuggler Ben to our older grandchildren when they were small, and we all loved the tales of smugglers, caves, secret passages, and danger.
Enid Blyton books were a big part of my own childhood, as were 3-digit telephone numbers, chopper bikes, clackers, flares, tank tops, Tiswas, and inappropriate jokes about the Magic Roundabout. I digress, but those of us fortunate enough to grow up in the ’70s experienced a strange mix of freedom, questionable safety standards, No 6 cigarettes sold in fives for when we couldn’t afford a pack of ten, and the freedom to go out during the day and solve mysteries before tea. Walking the Cornish Coast path also fills me with the most wonderful, exhilarating sense of freedom.
Moving on 45 years 😊… We headed towards Praa Sands; the path is relatively easy with gentle ups and downs, but well-trodden and straightforward. It’s very atmospheric, with its smuggling history, the appearance of spring wildflowers, and seabirds preparing for nesting season. Most of the mud had dried, so we made good progress reaching Praa Sands’ vast expanse of beach, popular in the summer with families.
Even though I was still full from breakfast, we found a lovely bench in the sun and decided on our coffee and sticky bun. Just the right amount of sugar to see us through the next, most challenging part of our hike.
We’ve often walked this next section by itself. It’s nearly 5 miles, and in the summer heat, it has taken us almost 3 hours. However, today, there was a cool breeze, and we hoped to cut the time to just over 2 hours.
Once you’re away from the beach and past Rinsey Head, the old mining engine houses come into view (notably Wheal Prosper and Wheal Trewavas). They serve as a wonderful atmospheric reminder of Cornwall’s copper mining history. On the north coast, where we live, the Cornish mined tin, while here on the south coast, they mined copper. Nowadays, the north coast is famous for its magnificent surf beaches, whereas the south is more renowned for sailing.
By now, it was a beautiful, clear day, and the views were breathtaking—rugged cliffs, turquoise waters, and the iconic mines, which you can walk right up to. I’ve often taken photos through the mine’s window of the turquoise waters below. Further along towards Trewavas, there are several engine houses on the cliffs. It’s a rugged terrain, and some paths are close to the cliffs in places.
With just a few stops, we made steady progress, and it’s always a delight to reach the charming fishing village of Porthleven, known for its historic port, lively pubs, and restaurants. When we visit Porthleven, we’re typically dressed for hiking, and I can’t help but watch with envy as well-dressed visitors enjoy fresh fish and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc over a long, relaxed lunch😊. However, I’ve never attempted to hike after half a bottle of wine; I can only imagine the scenery might spin a bit, and I might be whispering sweet nothings to bewildered squirrels! Today, we enjoyed our cheese and tomato roll on a bench overlooking the harbour—simply unbeatable!
Until our next walk together ……..
Living-your-best-life 