Before we set off on today’s hike, I want to share my thoughts on Helford Passage, our starting point. It’s a true gem and the perfect launchpad for the 10-mile coastal walk to Falmouth. We arrived early and enjoyed the serene atmosphere as we strolled along the Helford River, soaking up the surroundings. It felt like stepping back in time, with smugglers and the enchanting stories of Daphne du Maurier filling the air. Did you know the Helford River was a smugglers’ hideout? It features secret creeks, including the famous “Frenchman’s Creek”, which inspired du Maurier’s captivating novel about forbidden love, the search for personal freedom and the clash between societal expectations and desire.
If you’re planning a day trip, make sure to visit the historic Ferry Boat Inn, which has stood for over 300 years! It’s a fantastic spot for a long, relaxed lunch in the sunshine. Don’t miss the chance to take the ferry to Helford village! You’ll find a quaint location with a lovely pub, the Shipwrights Arms, and a delightful coffee shop. This ferry crossing boasts a rich history; it has operated since medieval times and might even appear in the Domesday Book! How cool is that?
Before we got going, we decided to enjoy the peace with a flask of coffee. My morning routine is simple. The first coffee wakes me up, while the second helps me resist the temptation to turn back at the first muddy stile. When I worked in London, I would get off at Bank Station on the Waterloo and City Line and head straight into Starbucks. Its not my first choice, I’d take Nero or Costa, but convenience has a way of deciding things. After years in banking software, I’ve stopped being surprised by that 🙂
Back to the walk… today, we enjoyed a beautiful spring day, and the Helford River delighted us with its calm, sheltered waters, creating a relaxed, almost subtropical feel to the morning.
As we left the village, we followed the shoreline into dense woodland, passing Polgwidden Cove, also known as Trebah Beach. This beach stands out not just for its scenic beauty; it served as a launch point for bravery, where 7,500 men from the 29th US Infantry embarked on the unknown on June 1, 1944, for the D-Day assault.
I couldn’t help but wonder about the emotions these young men felt as they departed for Omaha Beach. Fear must have gripped them, sharpened by the knowledge of what awaited them. I imagined them glancing back at the shores, perhaps filled with a bittersweet longing for the lives they were leaving behind. Walking past this poignant landmark, you can’t help but feel a profound sense of gratitude and sorrow intertwined. What they faced, we can barely comprehend, but the echoes of their bravery resonate through time, reminding us of the sacrifices made for our freedom. It’s a weighty thought that lingers long after you’ve left the shore.
As we continued, occasional glimpses of the estuary peeked through the trees. This stretch feels very atmospheric, quiet, shaded, and full of birdlife. On a previous visit, a robin ate from my hand.
We arrived at Durgan, a charming historic hamlet owned by the National Trust. The beautiful white cottages sit right by the water, alongside a small sandy and shingle beach. Just above the village, Glendurgan Gardens offers a stunning subtropical oasis, also under the care of the National Trust. As members, we often park at Glendurgan and enjoy various circular walks in the area. Children particularly love the cherry laurel maze, which provides plenty of fun.
As we continued, the walk opened up to the coast. We stood on the cliffs, taking in the transition from a sheltered river to an exposed coastline with a grassy headland and sweeping Atlantic views. We passed the remains of an Iron Age cliff castle, and the breathtaking views stretched far along the Cornish coast.
We headed towards Maenporth along the path that undulated along the cliffs. It dropped down to Bream Cove, a lovely sandy beach, and then climbed gently towards Maenporth. The wildflowers made me smile. We see so little colour in winter, so I love witnessing everything come to life. It’s uplifting, and the new growth always fills me with optimism, like a natural reset after months of cold and darkness.
At Maenporth, we always take a break on our favourite bench. It sits along the path and provides one of the prettiest views around! On warm summer days, I stretch out on the grassy meadow beside the bench, soaking in the laughter of children playing on the beach. Families frequent this spot because the calm waters are perfect for swimming, kayaking, and stand-up paddleboarding. There’s also a charming cafĂ© that feels like the quintessential seaside hangout. Today, however, a chilly breeze pushes us to continue to Falmouth.
We don’t find this section particularly challenging, and we start to gently climb the cliffs, rewarded with stunning views over Falmouth Bay. The path winds through trees and across open headlands, mixing shade with panoramic sea views. When you walk at low tide around the headland from Maenporth, you can spot the Ben Asdale shipwreck, a fishing vessel that ran aground in 1978. Fortunately, the crew was safely rescued. The view remains spectacular, and we can see all the way down toward the Lizard.
Swanpool is our next noteworthy point and is worth visiting if you have some time. The beach features a small, sheltered cove with soft sand and pebbles. However, what really captures interest is the lagoon behind the beach, which hosts swans, ducks, coots, and my favourite bird to photograph, the kingfisher. This area is also scientifically significant, as it supports rare organisms due to its unique salinity balance.
Today, we stuck to the path running along the seafront and the cliffs above the beach, making our way around the lagoon rather than crossing it. It was a brief stretch into Falmouth, and we enjoyed winding through patches of grass, shrubs, and vibrant wildflowers. It felt more like a stroll than a hike. We passed Gyllyngvase Beach, one of Falmouth’s main beaches, and as we continued along the edge, the scenery transitioned into a more urban setting as we reached the Promenade.
As we finished our hike in Falmouth, I reflected that my walks are never just about the distance travelled, a topic I frequently explore in my blogs. During these 3.5 hours of hiking, I find myself nestled among the quiet, ancient woodlands, the sparkling Helford estuary, and open cliff-top views. In these moments, I enter a rare and magical “flow” state where thoughts settle, worries dissolve, and I become fully present. When we find “flow”, everything feels better.
Until our next walk together xxxxx
