The Toughest Walk on the South West Coast Path?
Join me for another adventure on the Cornish coast.
It’s July, the sun is relentless, and we’re enjoying Britain’s hottest summer since 1976. If you’re too young to remember it, the legendary Summer of ’76 brought melting roads, swarms of ladybirds, vinyl car seats hot enough to brand your legs, and endless days fuelled by lukewarm hosepipe water and coconut-scented sun oil. There was no air conditioning, no Factor 50, and by August most of us resembled peeling reptiles covered in Calamine lotion. Somehow, we survived.
Today’s challenge is one of the toughest sections of the South West Coast Path, a route many walkers consider the hardest on the entire trail. So lace up your boots and let’s get started.
We arrived in St Ives early because, in summer, you really have no choice. By mid-morning the town is wonderfully vibrant but gloriously chaotic, which is exactly why I usually avoid it during July and August. Today, though, exceptions had to be made.
The walk to Pendeen is around 14 miles, taking roughly seven hours with plenty of stops for photos, snacks and those essential “whose idea was this?” moments. There’s around 650 metres of ascent and 550 metres of descent. Not one huge climb, but a relentless succession of steep ups and downs that quietly destroy your legs. Think of it as an excellent workout for your glutes and quads. They’ll remind you tomorrow.
A word of warning before you set off: once you’re beyond Zennor there’s no easy escape route. No road runs close to the coast, so this is a walk that demands commitment and a careful weather check. The reward is some of Cornwall’s wildest scenery, with dramatic granite cliffs, hidden coves, and long stretches where you may barely see another walker.
My rucksack already felt ridiculously heavy. I’d packed one and a half litres of water and enough snacks to justify burning the 2,000 calories I was about to consume.
The path leaves St Ives gently enough, winding around Clodgy Point before heading towards Rosewall Hill. It gradually becomes narrower and rockier as it threads through gorse and granite outcrops above the Atlantic. Normally the sea crashes dramatically below, but today it looked as though the waves had taken the day off, just like half the country who seemed to have descended on Cornwall.
About an hour before Zennor we reached the section I’d been dreading.
Jamie and I had walked it before, so we knew exactly what lay ahead. Despite that, I made the spectacularly bad decision to wear walking sandals.
The route suddenly plunges into enormous boulder fields, the most notorious obstacle on this stretch. In dry weather it’s an awkward scramble. In the wet it becomes genuinely hazardous, with every granite block polished like ice. This is where many of the Coast Path’s accidents happen, so take your time and think carefully about every step.
We’ve seen walkers completely overwhelmed here. On one occasion we found ourselves pressed against the cliff while a rescue helicopter winched out a walker who’d broken their leg.
And yes… I know what you’re thinking.
Why on earth was I wearing sandals?
Fair question.
By the time we reached Zennor we were ready for a break. This tiny granite village is home to the 13th-century Tinners Arms and the beautiful church famous for its carved Mermaid Chair. It’s also the last guaranteed place for food and drink before Pendeen, so if you’ve travelled light, it’s well worth the short one-mile detour (.5 mile each way).
Don’t miss Zennor Head while you’re here. In my opinion, it’s one of the most beautiful viewpoints in Cornwall. I’ve photographed it countless times and somehow still can’t resist taking just one more.
Leaving Zennor, I was painfully aware there were still around eight miles to go, and my glutes had officially declared industrial action.
This is the most remote part of the walk. The path constantly climbs and drops over a seemingly endless succession of headlands. Gurnard’s Head. Bosigra and Morvah each reward you with another descent followed immediately by another climb.
Gurnard’s Head is one of my favourite places on the entire coast. This is one of the only places you can leave the walk and head up the fields to the Gurnard’s Head Inn (approx. 35 mins). The dramatic headland is crowned by the remains of an Iron Age cliff castle, while the towering granite cliffs around Bosigran are famous with rock climbers. Looking down from the path, we could see climbers inching their way up the rock faces far below.
Just before you reach Pendeen Watch Lighthouse, Portheras Cove is the largest sandy beach on this stretch. It’s not lifeguarded, and there are strong currents. Today was calm, so we stopped, making it the perfect place for a well-earned break. We’d packed our swimming gear, and after nearly seven hours in the July sunshine, even the famously chilly Cornish sea felt wonderfully refreshing.
If you’re walking this section in summer, don’t underestimate the heat. Take plenty of water, wear a hat and keep the suncream topped up. There is very little shade.
The final miles lead you past Pendeen Watch, the active lighthouse standing proudly on the cliffs, before the path turns inland for the last gentle mile into Pendeen village.
It’s an unforgettable walk and one of the finest days out on the Cornish coast. We rarely tackle the whole route these days, but if you’d like to experience its spectacular scenery without committing to 14 demanding miles, park in Zennor’s public car park (still one of Cornwall’s bargains at around £2). Walk towards either St Ives or Pendeen for as little or as long as you like, then reward yourself with a well-earned pint at the Tinners Arms.
Just remember that this coastline is completely exposed to Atlantic weather. Check the forecast before setting off and don’t be afraid to turn back if conditions deteriorate.
Sometimes the best adventures are the ones you finish wanting never to do again… until next summer. xxxxx