Have you ever questioned a decision you made while sitting comfortably at home, looking at a glossy holiday brochure?
Well, I did. Only for about 30 seconds, but I did!
I love nature, scenery, photography and wildlife, so where better than a safari? But this wasn’t just any safari. We were heading into the bush for three nights, staying in a tent in the heart of Chobe National Park in Botswana.
And when I say the heart of the bush, I really mean it.
Chobe, named after the Chobe River, is renowned for its elephants, which gather here to drink, bathe and cross the river. The park borders Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe, and its vast landscapes are home to an enormous variety of wildlife.
Our adventure began with a drive from Victoria Falls into Botswana. We arrived at around 1 pm, where our tracker, Tony, was waiting. From the moment we set off, the safari had begun. Zebras, giraffes and elephants appeared along the way, and the further we went, the more remote it became.
After about an hour, we were deep in the bush and still hadn’t reached camp.
Six people, three nights, one adventure
We were travelling with friends we’d known for more than 30 years, and another couple joined us for the three days. From their side, I imagine it must have been quite something to spend three days with four people who’ve known each other for decades!
But they were lovely, and somehow all six of us were a perfect match. There was plenty of laughter and a shared enthusiasm for whatever the bush threw at us.
The weather hadn’t quite read the brochure
We were a little unlucky with the weather.
As our safari approached, the temperature on my weather app kept climbing. What had looked like a comfortable trip was threatening to become a 40-degree-plus adventure. Apparently, that was unusual for early November.
When we arrived, it was obvious this would be a challenge.
The welcome was wonderful: warm, communal and full of celebration. Traditional African singing filled the air as the guys from the camp clapped and danced to greet us, then guided us to our tents.
Have you ever stayed in a tent when it’s 40 degrees outside?
No, neither had I!
These weren’t your average camping tents. We had water delivered for drinking and washing, and even a flush toilet, which felt like a luxury, since we weren’t allowed to leave our tents overnight without an escort. The millipedes and spiders provided their own nightly entertainment, and I learned to wear proper shoes after dark, because stepping on a scorpion would have been a plot twist I didn’t need.
The night before we arrived, a pride of lions had visited the camp. It wasn’t entirely clear whether they’d already eaten or were still looking for their next meal.
Suddenly, sleeping under canvas in the African bush seemed far more adventurous than it had been from the comfort of home.
Service in the middle of nowhere
Despite the wilderness, the camp service was exceptional. Everything was beautifully organised, the staff were wonderful, and the food was genuinely excellent, which felt remarkable when the nearest civilisation seemed so far away, and it was all cooked on coals.
We loved returning from the evening game drive to sit around the campfire, gaze at the stars and enjoy pre-dinner drinks. We ate all our meals in the bush, and it was never truly silent. First light brings a layered chorus of birdsong, doves, hornbills and the ringing cry of a fish eagle; it was wonderful to lie in bed watching and listening to the bush wake up.
Midday fills with the electric buzz of cicadas and the soft rattle of wind through dry grass. Dusk brings the deep grunts of hippos and the first frog calls. Night erupts into a dense insect shimmer, punctuated by the close roar of lions, the whoop of hyenas and the occasional crash of something large moving through the dark outside our tent!
And Tony, our tracker, was absolutely brilliant.
He wasn’t simply driving us around looking for animals; he was interpreting the bush, explaining behaviour and helping us understand what was happening around us. We were in very good hands.
The savannah at sunset
Some moments take your breath away, and this was one of them.
As the afternoon faded, we drove towards the open savannah. Then we crested a hill, and the entire landscape opened up before us.
It was enormous.
An immense expanse of wilderness stretched to the horizon, bathed in the deepening light of the African sunset. Then we began to see them. Animals emerged from the shade where they’d spent the hottest hours, making their way to the river to drink. Elephants, buffalo, lions, impala, zebras and giraffes moved across the landscape, all drawn to the same precious water.
The animals seemed almost insignificant against the plains’ vastness, yet together they were impossible to ignore. Above us, the sky turned an intense red, the kind of colour that seems unreal until you witness it yourself.
And there they were: the hunters and the hunted, sharing the same land beneath Africa’s red skies.
As an aspiring photographer, I wanted to capture everything. But no iPhone could convey the scene’s sheer scale or raw emotion. Some moments demand that you put the camera down and simply take it all in. Unlike other safaris, the vastness ahead let us witness animal behaviour at its most extraordinary.
Three prides of lions and the art of the hunt
If the sunset was unforgettable, so were the lions.
Tony explained how lions hunt, and we watched three different prides in action.
I had no idea lionesses do most of the hunting while adult males tend to take a more supporting role. I’ll resist the urge to draw any broader conclusions about who’s really doing all the work. ☺
What struck me most was the tactics. Nothing seemed random. They seemed to know where to position themselves, how to approach their prey and when to move, and their patience and coordination were remarkable. You could see the difference between simply watching a lion and watching a predator behave exactly as nature intended.
It was a thrilling, humbling glimpse into a world where survival rules every moment. On our early-morning game drive, we found the kill and watched the lions feast, their bellies swelling as they ate.
Three nights that reminded me why I travel
Our three nights under canvas reminded me why I love travelling. I love the unexpected, the places that take you beyond your comfort zone, and the experiences that stay with you long after you’re home.
Chobe gave us all of that: wildlife on a vast scale, landscapes that stretched forever, and sunsets almost impossible to describe.
It also reminded me that some of the most memorable travel experiences aren’t the easiest. Sometimes they’re the ones that make you question your decisions for 30 seconds while sitting in the comfort of your own home!
Would I do it again?
Absolutely. Next time, though, I might just check the temperature before booking.
